So what is the “black henna” that you may have seen at a festival or on the street? Well, the truth is, it likely has some henna in it but that isn’t what makes it black. A substance also found in black hair dye is the key ingredient for black henna, known as PPD (para-phenylenediamine ).
So why is PPD so dangerous? Because skin exposed to PPD for an extended period of time (as is needed in henna application) can irritate the skin, possibly even scar it (as seen in the photo above and the two lower down on this page). Individual sensitivity varies but severe scars and even kidney and respiratory damage have been attributed to PPD in black henna mixes. Some individuals “skate by” with minor allergic reactions or mild dermatitis, the first time. Some even avoid a reaction all together, initially, but typically that doesn’t last. If you don’t have a reaction or you have a mild one the first time, it doesn’t mean you won’t have a worse reaction with the next application. Once you have a reaction to a PPD exposure, you are forever sensitized to it. The reactions can worsen with subsequent exposures and can eventually render a person incapable of contact with a number of everyday items (PPD/black dye is used in a number fabric dyes and other products). Some people will try to rationalize the PPD in their henna by claiming it is “cosmetic grade” PPD. The problem with this claim is that PPD is NOT APPROVED for contact with the skin, but only for the hair. This is why the hair colorist wears gloves when they apply black hair dye to a person’s hair and why they do their best to not allow the product to make contact with your scalp.
Henna is a tradition of healing and beauty.
Natural henna is the healthy choice.
So how do you know if the artist you are considering is using black henna? There are some very basic questions you can ask. First, I must say that some artists do not realize they are using PPD/black henna and are convinced they are using a “natural black henna” as that is how it has been sold to them. Thing is, it simply does not exist. I, as well as many in the henna community, have explored the many ways in which various people darken their henna to black. Sadly, all of them (without exception) have been found to be highly unsafe. Even with regard to the “natural black henna” powders that are sold, samples from a variety of sources were taken to a lab for testing and they have all come back positive for PPD. (I didn’t test these powders personally but a trusted fellow henna artist that I know personally did). Bottom line is … better safe than sorry.
So, here are some key questions you should ask;
How long will I need to keep the paste on my skin?
- Natural henna needs to remain for 4-8 hours, the longer the better
- Black henna usually only about 1 hour or less
What color will the stain be?
- Natural henna – orangey-brown or reddish-brown
- Black henna – BLACK
The natural color of henna paste is a greenish-brown or brown color and the stain that results will be either dark brown, reddish-brown or orangey-brown. Natural henna usually smells quite pleasant, too. The popularity of the traditional ink tattoo and hesitancy some have to make such a lifelong commitment has created a market for the temporary “black tattoo” image. Henna is a tradition all its own and is not a substitute for ink tattoos. A safe, long lasting, black image cannot be achieved by natural henna ingredients alone.
There is one possibly safe option for a more “black-ish” color and that is with jagua.
Jagua is a gel from a South American fruit that has been used for body adornment by native peoples for centuries. While the color achieved with jagua is very different than with henna, it isn’t actually black but rather a more light blueish-black color (results varying with the individual). One word of caution, though. There are many folks who enjoy the results of jagua with no problem. However, there are also a fair number of people who develop allergic reactions to it, even if they “get away with it” once or twice. I highly recommend exploring this product with due caution and to do a small skin test on those that are concerned about sensitivities. Due to the cost of jagua, it’s limited viability and the large number of people who appear to react to it, I do not offer jagua services. But I wanted to offer this information here in the spirit of full disclosure. 
Ultimately, what I want you to take from this page is this…….
Be informed and Be safe!
Happy Henna!
